2SmartThings साथ सस्ते वाईफ़ाई SmartPlugs

SmartThings संगत स्मार्ट प्लग annoyingly महंगे हैं - आम तौर पर चारों ओर £ 40. इस के कई खरीदने पर विचार कर बहुत महंगा है. वहाँ तथापि वाईफाई चारों ओर £ 10 कि आधिकारिक तौर पर SmartThings साथ काम नहीं करते के लिए ऑनलाइन उपलब्ध प्लग कर रहे हैं. उनमें से ज्यादातर ESP8266 चिप जो नए फर्मवेयर कि SmartThings के साथ काम करेंगे साथ reflashed किया जा सकता है पर आधारित होते हैं. नीचे मैं इन प्लग हैकिंग के साथ अपने परीक्षणों और समस्याएं दस्तावेज़

के मार्च 2018 के रूप में मैं कोशिश की है 4 difer­ent makes of plugs with a vari­ety of res­ults.

Note — Regard­less of the soft­ware you plan to use to flash the device, and regard­less of the flash image you use, I recom­mend using pin head­ers (आदर्श soldered) to get a reli­able con­nec­tion dur­ing flash­ing. मैं के लिए एक पैकेट मिला £ 10 के आसपास which has enough head­ers to do hun­dreds of smart plugs. I also recom­mend using a CH340G यूएसबी to seri­al adapter instead of an FTDI adapter as there can be issues with the drivers for the FTDI adapters. आप पहले से ही एक FTDI एडाप्टर मिली है, तो सुनिश्चित करें कि आप प्रयोग कर रहे हैं पुराने चालकों. Also ensure your adapter can sup­ply 3.3v rather than 5v (जो संभावना ESP8266 चिप भून होगा)

I have used Sonoff-Tas­mota which I build and install via the Ardu­ino IDE (see bot­tom of post for addi­tion­al info). I then installed a cus­tom device hand­ler, द्वारा निर्मित ब्रेट Sheleski.

By the end of my exper­i­ments I had 2 work­ing Smart­Plugs, hav­ing bought 4 dif­fer­ent plugs (£ 44.94 कुल), 1 यूएसबी अनुकूलक (£ 5.99), तथा 1 set of pin head­ers (£ 6.69). If you don’t have a sol­der­ing iron you’ll need one of those too (£ 26.29). Includ­ing the sol­der­ing iron my total cost was £83.91. सभी था 4 प्लग इस हो गया होता सभ्य मूल्य काम किया. ज्यों का त्यों, मुझे मिल गया है 2 work­ing plugs, £ 41.96 प्रत्येक की लागत से. This is almost identic­al to a Belkin WeeMo, which might make the whole thing seem point­less — and if you only want a total of 1 या 2 plugs it prob­ably isn’t the best way to go. कैसे कभी, मैं काफी कुछ अधिक प्लग है करने की योजना, and I can now add more plugs to my col­lec­tion at a total cost of £8.97 each as I already have everything else I need to flash them. (Update Dec-2018, I now have a total of 20 smart­plugs, and have paid no more than £12 for any of them)

1. SWA1 (has a purple but­ton) — branded as COOSA, Annstory, Lingan­zh, and no doubt oth­er names too. Seems to be asso­ci­ated with the app “eFam­ily­Cloud”.

यह एक दूसरा है पीसीबी इसके अंदर जो एक SWA1 के रूप में चिह्नित किया गया है. Googling this indic­ates that it uses an ESP8266 inside and a suc­cess­ful firm­ware hack has been doc­u­mented (पिन से पता चला के साथ) द्वारा Nath­an Chantrell. I have fol­lowed Nath­an’s meth­od with suc­cess, although the mod­ule type did­n’t show up the first time (I made an error modi­fy­ing the code) but I was able to get the device work­ing by select­ing Gen­er­ic and then con­fig­ur­ing the pins myself. This worked but not quite flaw­lessly, so after a bit of read­ing I reflashed it. Nath­an’s guide does­n’t make it clear that 3 changes are needed to the code before flash­ing — the large sec­tion at the bot­tom, and the match­ing name from it needs to be added to 2 lists above which should be obvi­ous when view­ing the file. Since reflash­ing (via the web inter­face) यह बहुत अच्छी तरह से काम किया है. To keep the sol­der­ing simple I fed 5v from my यूएसबी 5v पिन करने के लिए एडाप्टर, लेकिन मैं अनुकूलक 3.3 पर सेट हो तो (अर्थात. the set­ting for the data pins). So it is worth hav­ing an adapter with both 5v and 3.3v pins and a jump­er to set the voltage of the data pins inde­pend­ently (CH340G के रूप में मैं से जुड़ा हुआ अमेज़न है पर). I was able to leave the pins attached by bend­ing them over to nearly 90degrees before put­ting the पीसीबी back into the plastic cas­ing.


2. The HowiseAcc S126 Smart plug with यूएसबी (बीच में थोड़ा में घटता)

Inform­a­tion online indic­ated that the TYWE3S com­pon­ent in this smart plug con­tains and ESP8266 and hence it should (in the­ory) be flash­able. I have not as yet iden­ti­fied the cor­rect pins, altho there are labels for 3.3v and ground on the under­side and the TX, RX and GPIO0 pins on the TYWE3S are shown on a sim­il­ar device on a post on Git­Hub. मैं कम से कम पाया 1 oth­er thread with anoth­er per­son ask­ing about the same device, and some more inform­a­tion from एंड्रियास Engel, लेकिन इसके साथ 2 की मेरी 4 “test plugs” work­ing I decided that try­ing to solder this head­ers on this plug was too dif­fi­cult and have ditched it. If you’ve got a stead­i­er hand than me then take a look at the link, espe­cially the second one and please let me know if you have any luck.


3. Floureon PS-16-एमबी स्मार्ट प्लग

This has an ESP8285 chip onboard which is com­pat­ible with the ESP8266. It has trick­i­er head­ers to solder but once soldered it flashed per­fectly first time. Just con­nect the 4 reg­u­lar pins (3.3में, भूमि, टेक्सास, RX) and hold the but­ton down whilst power­ing it up (1−2 seconds was enough). As this is effect­ively a Sonoff S20 clone I sus­pect it can be flashed more eas­ily with the NodeM­CU flash­er by fol­low­ing एरिक एम गाइड, S20 firm­ware, Device hand­ler, तथा स्मार्ट अनुप्रयोग कोड. कैसे कभी, I pre­ferred to go with the Tas­mota firm­ware as I had already set everything up to build and flash it, and it sup­ports the oth­er smart plugs which aren’t all Sonoff S20 clones. जो रास्ता तय करना के चुनाव आप पर निर्भर है.


4. The Aonokoy SE01 (16 एम्प) स्मार्ट प्लग

This has an ESP8266 and easy to access head­ers, although they are too close togeth­er to con­nect reg­u­lar pin head­ers to so I used loose wires instead. I have been able to con­nect mine to my PC and flash it. After flash­ing it boots up as expec­ted and the web inter­face of the firm­ware loads, लेकिन यूनिट के आसपास के बाद दुर्घटनाओं 10 सेकंड हर बार. मुझे यकीन है कि ऐसा क्यों है नहीं कर रहा हूँ, but it does it with sev­er­al dif­fer­ent firm­wares flashed onto it. I am hop­ing it is just bad luck with a duff unit.


5. The Hyleton HLT 315 स्मार्ट प्लग (looks a lot like a Floureon on the out­side)

This was more fiddly than I had hoped as there are no pin head­ers on the पीसीबी itself — instead you have to solder to the exist­ing join between the main पीसीबी और वाईफाई कार्ड पीसीबी. For­tu­nately there was a guide for a very sim­il­ar 313 उपकरण है जो (cor­rectly!) iden­ti­fied the pins needed. Flash­ing was suc­cess­ful and the only dif­fi­cult part was to identi­fy which device type to select (or cus­tom­ise) ताकि एलईडी, but­ton, और रिले सब काम होगा. The GPI0 pin had to be shor­ted to ground phys­ic­ally, as hold­ing the but­ton down did­n’t put the device into flash mode. This was a bit fiddly — I really needed 3 हाथ! It is pos­sible to (अधिकतर) con­fig­ure the device cor­rectly by using the gen­er­ic device type and set­ting GPIO2 as Led1i, Button1 और GPIO15 Relay1 के रूप में के रूप में GPIO13. आप भी लाल एलईडी हमेशा पर होना चाहते हैं तो Led2i रूप GPIO0 सेट.


बिल्डिंग sonoff-tasmota खुद

  • Down­load the Ardu­ino devel­op­ment envir­on­ment
  • स्थापित करें और इसे चलाने के
  • Open Pref­er­ences from the File menu
  • In “addi­tion­al boards man­ager” enter http://arduino.esp8266.com/stable/package_esp8266com_index.json और ठीक क्लिक करें
  • Open Tools > Board > Boards Man­ager
  • ESP8266 के लिए खोज
  • Hov­er over the res­ult and click the Install but­ton that appears
  • After it has installed change your board using Tools > Board >and select the Generic ESP8266 Module
  • बंद Arduio आईडीई
  • CH340G के लिए ड्राइवरों स्थापित करें (down­load theme here)
  • Down­load and extract from zip the Sonoff-Tas­mota firm­ware
  • Open sonoff.ino in the sonoff sub­folder (this will reload the ardu­ino IDE)
  • Option­al: संपादित करें 2 पंक्तियां (पंक्तियां 62 तथा 63) in my_user_config.h to set wire­less net­work name and pass­word
  • Con­nect the CH340G to the board, और फिर एक में CH340G प्लग यूएसबी बंदरगाह
  • Select Upload from the Sketch menu of the Aru­dio IDE

I found that with new­er builds of Sonoff-Tas­mota that at least 1 LED would flick­er con­tinu­ously. I even­tu­ally real­ised (by look­ing at the logs) that this was because MQTT is enabled by default and the device is search­ing con­tinu­ously for an MQTT net­work / con­trol­ler or some­thing. I don’t use MQTT so I turned this off and the LED stopped flash­ing.

इस उपयोगी पाया? कृपया हमें सूचित करते नीचे एक टिप्पणी छोड़ने के द्वारा. आप सदस्यता के लिए चाहते हैं, तो ऊपर दाईं ओर मेनू पर लिंक का उपयोग करें सदस्यता लें. आप नीचे दिए गए सामाजिक लिंक का उपयोग करके अपने दोस्तों के साथ इस साझा कर सकते हैं. चियर्स.

उत्तर छोड़ दें

2 टिप्पणियाँ

Gravatarजॉन Scaife

I used the CH340G यूएसबी adaptor linked at the top of the art­icle, and just stripped the wires and poked them through the holes in the पीसीबी. That was­n’t easy as they always want to twist and touch each oth­er, or they want to lose con­tact. You can see how the wires are looped through in the 5वें image (https://diymediahome.org/wp-content/uploads/aonokoy_6.jpg). वहाँ रहे हैं 2 areas that need wires con­nect­ing — the set of 5 holes near the edge of the पीसीबी which need 4 wires from the यूएसबी अनुकूलक. The last 2 holes need con­nect­ing togeth­er. There is also anoth­er set of pin holes near the middle of the पीसीबी - 2 of these need short­ing togeth­er. I then used the Ardu­ino IDE to flash Sonoff Tas­mota as described at the top of the art­icle. As I say above altho it worked, it crashes after a short peri­od

जवाब दें